We went to Admiral Codrington specifically to eat burgers, and it didn’t take long to realise that we weren’t the only ones. After venturing through the front room of a non-descript pub in Chelsea, we sat down in the skylight-roofed dining room at 7pm. Twenty minutes later, no less than eight burgers had been served up through the hatch of the semi-open kitchen opposite our seats. The only other order came from a father and son, who had requested a solitary 10oz Black Angus Sirloin steak…to be eaten as a side dish with their burgers. Well, obviously.
Through word of mouth and the wonders of the Internet, The Admiral Codrington has earnt itself a reputation as offering one of the best burgers in London, and rightfully so. The patty (made of in-house aged beef) is expertly charred on the outside and a perfect, blushing pink within. The American cheese and crunchy pickles cut sharply through the fattiness of the meat. The bun is shiny and light but doesn’t disintegrate into a soggy mess in your hands. There are chips served alongside (you’d expect there to be, at £16) and they are really good chips – crisp, fluffy, abundant. And don’t let your burger-shaped tunnel vision distract you from the rest of the menu, which offers salt and pepper squid in an unexpectedly delicious fish and chip-style batter, a deeply savoury Mac and Cheese and lots of posh things like Wild Crab Linguine and Confit Belly of Port in case you don’t feel like ordering the burger.
But you really should order the burger.