My favourite new cafe in LA isn’t really a cafe at all. It’s more of a…storefront? Coffee bar? Open kitchen? There are only a few countertop seats inside - plus a handful more tables outside - Sqirl’s location on the not-so-picturesque Virgil Avenue in LA’s Silver Lake. But the food itself is beautiful (yes, beautiful) enough to compensate.
The perfect composition of each plate belies the fact that Sqirl is essentially serving comfort food - albeit in its highest form. Its head chef Jessica Koslow is renowned for her locally-sourced jams and spreads, and she’s built a menu here that uses them in a myriad of imaginative forms. There’s brown rice porridge enlivened with sorrel pesto, preserved Meyer lemon, poached egg and feta, or sweetened with your choice of jam and toasted hazelnuts. There’s toast with various toppings: Santa Rosa plum chutney, sheep’s cheese and coarse salt, or chocolate ganache and almond-hazelnut butter, or quince paste and prosciutto. There’s granola with sweet, housemade almond milk. And to wash it all down there are G&B Coffee cappuccinos, served in cutesy glass jars.
Everything about Sqirl is designed to comfort, soothe, delight. Awkward seating aside, that’s exactly what it does.